One area where Windows has been leaps and bounds ahead of the Mac for years, if not decades, is volume control. Quite simply, sometimes you need to control volume on a finer level than OS X allows. Windows lets you adjust output volume for each individual application, but this isn’t possible natively on a Mac.
- Volume Control On Multi Output Device For Macbook Pro
- Volume Control On Multi Output Device For Mac Computer
So we have to turn to third-party apps to grant us this ability. Both apps on this list offer the feature of adjusting volume by app. However, the apps each bring something different to the table, so explore the options and decide for yourself which is best.
When using the Built-in Output as part of a Mult-Output Device, you can set the volume of the Built-in Output with AppleScript: osascript -e 'set volume 2' This doesn't seem to affect the volume of the other devices that are part of the Multi-Output Device. Now, if only there was a way to get the volume button keys to run a script! The Multi-Output Device seems to be what you are looking for. Edirol virtual sound canvas. It will output the audio to all devices enabled in the right part of the window. The Aggregate Device allows you to join multiple sound cards to simulate one audio device with more output channels (e.g. Instead of four separate stereo outputs you would see a single 8 channel output). While you are at it, take a look at the volume bar below and make sure that your output volume is turned up and Mute is unchecked. This should restore audio to your native Mac speakers.
Volume Mixer
Volume Mixer is the first Mac app on the list and it allows you to control system volume by application. The app sits in your menu bar so you can call it up as needed. Each app, much like on Windows, is accompanied by its own volume slider. Adjust it as you’d like, mute individual apps entirely or click Refresh to bring an app on par with the master volume.
Over in the Preferences, you can choose your default output source or just quickly change sources on the fly. You can also set highly convenient keyboard shortcuts for specific actions revolving around volume control. These include increasing the volume of an active app, decreasing the volume of an active app, toggling mute for an active app, increasing/decreasing/muting background sound and increasing/decreasing/muting notifications. If you want full control over your output audio, it doesn’t get much better than this.
Clickfree software mac. Volume Mixer comes with a free seven day trial after which it’s $9.99 for two copies or $14.99 for lifetime updates. It’s fairly steep pricing, but if you need the features, it works great.
Background Music
Background Music is a simpler app that does much of the same thing as Volume Mixer. From your menu bar, you can adjust volume for individual applications. But in Background Music, the volume sliders aren’t relative to your master volume. Each slider by default is set to the middle and doesn’t change when you raise or lower your volume. That means that technically, if you have your volume all the way up, you could still give some apps a slight boost.
It also has a phenomenal feature that auto-pauses your music when another source of audio starts playing, then automatically continues playback when the other audio stops. It’s much like how music stops and resumes when you get a phone call on your iPhone. The auto-pause feature supports iTunes, Spotify, VOX and VLC.
Background Music is free, unlike Volume Mixer, but since the developer hasn’t officially published it anywhere, it must be installed from GitHub.
Note: The guide to installing Background Music is right on the GitHub page. If you have Xcode installed, just copy and paste the provided prompt into Terminal.
To manually install, download the ZIP file and unzip it. In Terminal, type
cd
followed by the path to where you unzipped the folder. Then install by typing /bin/bash build_and_install.sh
.ALSO SEE:How to Live Monitor Your Microphone Input on Mac
The above article may contain affiliate links which help support Guiding Tech. However, it does not affect our editorial integrity. The content remains unbiased and authentic.Also See#audio #music
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[This article covers using a Mac's HDMI output for surround sound audio using an HDMI equipped A/V receiver. Info here should still be applicable to later OS X versions and newer Macs if using HDMI output. Also here's a later article with Notes/Tips for Repeated Mac Mini Video Blackouts with some A/V Receivers that includes Receiver HDMI Info, Tests and Tips on HDMI and HDCP problems in OS X.](from a reader mail, reply bounced so posting here)
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'OS X DVD Player HDMI Audio Question
I finally hooked up my new mac mini to our receiver so we'd have surround sound possible with DVDs played in OS X. The OS X Sound pref pane set to HDMI Output (see example below) and Audio/Midi utility configured correctly for multi-channel audio. (I think.) The receiver the mini's HDMI is connected to shows 'PCM' during playback and DVD movie (Dolby Digital 5.1) audio seems muffled compared to playing the same DVD in our home dvd player. We noticed the standalone player shows 'Dolby Digital' on the receiver's display - not 'PCM'. DVDs just sound much better from the home player than from the OS X DVD player connected to the same receiver.
How do I get the OS X DVD player to send 'dolby digital' to the receiver to see if that helps?
-Beth'
First, I'm assuming your Sound Output (System prefs) is set to HDMI like this example:
FYI: When set to HDMI audio output, the Mac's audio volume control is disabled.
Volume is controlled from the connected device (i.e. Receiver or HDTV).
As for changing the OS X DVD Player audio output to Dolby Digital (and not PCM) - it's a simple change in the OS X DVD Player settings. Set the OS X DVD player Prefs (in 'Disc Setup' options) Audio Output to 'Digital Out'. As you have it set (from the comments), the Mac/OS X DVD Player is decoding the Dolby Digital audio on the DVD and sending PCM audio to your receiver. (When set to Digital Out, it will bitstream Dolby Digital (or DTS) to the receiver for decoding.) Apple's support article on 'Setting up iTunes & DVD Player for digital surround sound' (support.apple.com/kb/HT4072, later changed to HT202029), went from 'archived, no longer updated' to removed as of 2019. Here's a screenshot from my OS X DVD Player Audio Output prefs setting.
The 'Digital Output' option may also have info on the connected device appended to it. (My example above has 'Samsung' - the TV brand connected to the AVR. If not going through a receiver, you'd usually get only Stereo with direct TV connections.) As you can see in the screenshot, I also check the option to 'Disable Dolby dynamic range compression'. (I prefer maximum dynamic range although some may not, especially for nighttime viewing. A/V Receivers often have DRC options also.)
iTunes Surround Sound Settings:
The Apple article also had info on surround sound setting in iTunes. Click the 'Speech Bubble' icon (see below) to see/select available audio options for the specific file being played. Apple says in iTunes 11 and later, digital surround sound is selected automatically for content that includes it. (Surround output still relies on proper hardware/configuration and options can vary depending on the media used.)
The Apple article also had info on surround sound setting in iTunes. Click the 'Speech Bubble' icon (see below) to see/select available audio options for the specific file being played. Apple says in iTunes 11 and later, digital surround sound is selected automatically for content that includes it. (Surround output still relies on proper hardware/configuration and options can vary depending on the media used.)
I rarely use it and don't buy/rent iTunes content so can't comment on quality or specific recommended titles.
OS X DVD Player (Subjective) Sound Quality (PCM vs Bitstreaming/Digital output)
After Beth's comments on (PCM) DVD movie SQ, I checked this on my AVR (with TDKR DVD's Dolby Digital 5.1) and PCM output from the OS X DVD player seemed (by ear) about 5-6dB down vs Bitstreaming at the same AVR Master Volume setting. Lower volume (level) with LPCM vs Bitstream isn't uncommon, but even adjusting for volume level, I still preferred bitstreaming Dolby Digital/DTS to the AVR as it also shows the codec used on the AVR display (vs 'PCM'). Often in blind speaker tests most think 'louder' is better, within limits of course. Normally from a standalone player, SQ should be equivalent (PCM vs Bitstream) unless there's another issue present. (I used a 2012 Mac Mini 2.3GHz quad-core i7, 16GB RAM with OS X 10.9.5. Not tested other versions/player software.) Bottom line, I prefer letting the A/V Receiver decode DVD surround sound rather than OS X. (And one less thing the Mac/OS X has to do.)
After Beth's comments on (PCM) DVD movie SQ, I checked this on my AVR (with TDKR DVD's Dolby Digital 5.1) and PCM output from the OS X DVD player seemed (by ear) about 5-6dB down vs Bitstreaming at the same AVR Master Volume setting. Lower volume (level) with LPCM vs Bitstream isn't uncommon, but even adjusting for volume level, I still preferred bitstreaming Dolby Digital/DTS to the AVR as it also shows the codec used on the AVR display (vs 'PCM'). Often in blind speaker tests most think 'louder' is better, within limits of course. Normally from a standalone player, SQ should be equivalent (PCM vs Bitstream) unless there's another issue present. (I used a 2012 Mac Mini 2.3GHz quad-core i7, 16GB RAM with OS X 10.9.5. Not tested other versions/player software.) Bottom line, I prefer letting the A/V Receiver decode DVD surround sound rather than OS X. (And one less thing the Mac/OS X has to do.)
And in case anyone is wondering, I was getting multi-channel PCM out. (Audio/Midi utility set for 8-channel (7.1) output. Notice this is NOT set to 'Encoded Digital Audio' option. I prefer PCM out for general (non-DVD, non-iTunes movie) playback through the AVR. Digital/Surround is set separately in the DVD Player and iTunes.) The OS X 5.1/7.1 speaker tests in Audio/Midi Setup Utility worked/played correctly (front, center, rears, subwoofer, etc. output tests) and the (Yamaha RX-A2000) AVR (set to straight surround decode/no DSP) speaker icons display showed 5.1 or 7.1 depending on my configuration set in Audio/Midi utility.
(I originally linked to Apple's PH5164 article on 'Using Audio Midi to Setup external speakers for stereo or surround sound', but they have now removed it. And their basic guide to 'Connecting a Mac to a home stereo, iPod, iPad, musical instruments, or speakers' is now Set up an audio device on your Mac or stream music from your Mac.)
Volume Control On Multi Output Device For Macbook Pro
BTW: I tried 5.1 vs 7.1 PCM tests with DVD Dolby Digital 5.1 in case using Dolby Digital 5.1 with 7.1 setting was a factor - it wasn't. Maybe other models/OS versions or players differ, but I see no reason not to set the DVD player to Digital Out unless your connected hardware/setup has an issue with that.
I also like that Bitstreaming shows the DVD/Movie's Codec used on the AVR's display instead of just 'PCM'. (Although I've not had the problem with my setup, as mentioned on the audio/HT page previously, some have had to set their player to PCM to avoid audio dropouts with some Dolby TrueHD audio Blu-Rays when the player was set to bitstreaming. The only time I've set my BD player to PCM is to hear director's commentary/secondary audio tracks/PIP - something I rarely do.)
About Subwoofer (Low Frequency Bass and .1) Output:
I've seen some posts in Apple's forums from mac owners saying they're not getting any subwoofer output from their Mac/OS X systems. I didn't see any detailed info on their configuration/setup but here's a list/recap of some tips, reasons why and things to check:
I've seen some posts in Apple's forums from mac owners saying they're not getting any subwoofer output from their Mac/OS X systems. I didn't see any detailed info on their configuration/setup but here's a list/recap of some tips, reasons why and things to check:
- Does the content being played have any actual low-frequency content?
- How is your A/V Receiver setup for Bass/Subwoofer management?
(Are speakers set to 'Small' with subwoofer crossover frequency set (i.e. 80Hz), etc.) - Does the Subwoofer work correctly with other content? (non-OS X player, DVD/BR discs, etc)
- Does the Subwoofer have an auto/on switch? (if so set to ON vs auto - more info below)
- Does the A/V Receiver have an option for 'expanded' surround options (but you may not like it)
Some AVRs also have a 'double bass' (or similar named) option for sending main speaker channel (not .1) low frequency audio to the Subwoofer(s) even when speakers are set to 'Large'. That usually isn't recommended however and setting speakers to 'Small' (regardless of their size/driver capability) is preferred as it reduces the amplifier load significantly by not having to handle LF (low frequency bass) output, and lets the Subwoofer do what it's designed to do better than the main speakers. This load reduction is a plus for most Receivers and can help extend the life of the amp and improve audio dynamics. (Low Frequency audio takes a LOT more power.)
Regarding Subwoofers with an Auto/On Switch:
Some subwoofer amplifiers with an 'Auto On' (or Auto Standby) feature may not be getting a high enough level signal to turn on the amp. This can vary by subwoofer/amp mfr and also by AVR. (Some AVRs output higher voltage levels than others. Regardless I don't recommend setting the AVR's SW trim level over the '0' setting as it could clip the output in some cases and reduces headroom.) Another old tip (for higher levels/better Auto on triggering) is using a 'Y' adapter at the Subwoofer if its amp has dual (R/L) inputs, but this could also clip the input stage of the SW Amp, depending on the AVR/Output level. Some higher end SW amps handle this better (input protection) but many may not.
Also some subwoofer amps with an 'Auto' on setting may go into standby if no (sufficient) signal is received for a period of time. (The SW plate amps I've had with this feature typically went into standby after appx 15 minutes. Despite them being fairly quick to switch out of standby, for some movies with extended periods of dialog, I've switched them to On vs Auto for that reason.) Despite the auto/standby feature, I still power off my amps when done using them.
Some subwoofer amplifiers with an 'Auto On' (or Auto Standby) feature may not be getting a high enough level signal to turn on the amp. This can vary by subwoofer/amp mfr and also by AVR. (Some AVRs output higher voltage levels than others. Regardless I don't recommend setting the AVR's SW trim level over the '0' setting as it could clip the output in some cases and reduces headroom.) Another old tip (for higher levels/better Auto on triggering) is using a 'Y' adapter at the Subwoofer if its amp has dual (R/L) inputs, but this could also clip the input stage of the SW Amp, depending on the AVR/Output level. Some higher end SW amps handle this better (input protection) but many may not.
Also some subwoofer amps with an 'Auto' on setting may go into standby if no (sufficient) signal is received for a period of time. (The SW plate amps I've had with this feature typically went into standby after appx 15 minutes. Despite them being fairly quick to switch out of standby, for some movies with extended periods of dialog, I've switched them to On vs Auto for that reason.) Despite the auto/standby feature, I still power off my amps when done using them.
(There's a lot more to this subject of course (room calibration/EQ, gain vs level matching subs, etc), but it's beyond the scope of this article.)
Equipment Used:
Volume Control On Multi Output Device For Mac Computer
- Late 2012 Mac Mini 2.3GHz Quad-Core i7, 16GB RAM, 480GB Intel 520 SSD swap, OEM 1TB HDD.
- OS X 10.9.5 (also tested w/10.8.5). No 3rd party add-ons or plugins installed.
- Logitech Wireless K400 Keyboard with trackpad. (Using the included USB Stub receiver.)
- USB Apple 'Superdrive' (DVD/CD). (Have also used a MiniStack MAX with Blu-ray/DVD drive.)
- 2010 Yamaha RX-A2000 A/V Receiver (firmware 3.43)
- 7.2 speaker setup - Klipsch RF83s/RC64/RS62s/RS42s & SVS PC13/PB13/PB12-Ultra/2 subs, bought used/damaged over the years.
(HT/Audio page has my (750W) SVS Ultra Bash Amp Failure/Tests and Repair Info.)
This Yamaha AVR has dual subwoofer outputs and unlike some '.2' AVRs, the outputs are separate/independent. (You can setup Subs for Mono x2, Stereo, or Front/Rear configuration, although in most cases Mono is best.)